Growing bulbs inside is one of my great joys of winter. I scour store sales and garage sales for containers to plant various bulbs in to give as holiday gifts. There is nothing like the cheer of an amaryllis, daffodil, or a little antique teacup filled with lily of the valley to perk up a gray day!

One of the most important things you can do to “winterize” your plants is to make sure that everything is well watered going into the winter. If the weather is dry and the ground not thoroughly frozen, water well into the early winter. For broadleaf and other evergreens, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, pieris, you can try an anti-transpirant spray like “Wilt Pruf” to help them weather desiccating winds. Anti-transpirant sprays are expensive, but especially helpful on new evergreen shrubs and trees that are getting established. If you choose an anti-transpirant spray, be sure to follow the label instructions for use because there are certain conditions during which it should not be applied. Mulch may also be applied in the late fall or early winter after a planting has reached dormancy. The best mulches for this purpose are fallen leaves and leafy twigs that are loose and will not become compacted over the plant material.

If I didn’t get around to planting a few things this summer, will they die if I leave them in their containers outside?

Regrettably, I always seem to have my share of plants that I just didn’t have the time or energy to get into the ground. If you have a cold frame, potted plants would winter well in one. I do not have a cold frame but have had good luck wintering potted plants over if I trim them back and thoroughly water them once they have died down. Then I put them next to my compost bins and cover them with straw and/or loose leaves. I think the warmth of the compost and the loose mulch keeps them from getting too cold too fast. If you do not have a composting area, perhaps you could try putting them next to shed, preferably the north side, and putting straw or leaves on them. If you have a particularly warm and dry winter, you will need to check the plants regularly and water them if needed. While leaving a plant in its container for the winter is not ideal, there is nothing to lose by trying it if it is no longer possible to plant it.

When planting in the early to mid fall, the plant’s root system has time to establish during a cooler time when drought is normally less of a problem. Then the plant can go into winter slumber after having gotten comfortable with its situation. That being said, it is by far best to get planting done by mid fall. Although, I have planted as late as the end of November and maybe even into December and been successful despite myself. Planting that late is not ideal. But what if, for instance, you happen across a plant sale where they were practically giving away named hybrids of plants you want? Or what if your neighbor, who does nothing but garden, decides to divide his/her prize perennials at the last minute and give some to you? And, while this probably does not apply to you, what if you didn’t get around to planting the plants you purchased at full price way back in the spring?

How do I store the roots from plants like caladiums and tuberous begonias during the winter?

We spend so much money on tuberous begonias, cannas, dahlias, and the like, that it really does seem a shame just to send them to the compost pile at the end of the season. With a little bit of extra effort at the end of the season, you can easily save these plants from year to year by preparing and storing their fleshy roots called tubers, rhizome, and corms. Each type of plant has slightly different requirements for preparation and storage. To learn about storing tender bulbs, rhizomes, and corms over the winter months, go to this University of Minnesota Web site, which comprehensively covers this topic for several different types of plants: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1117.html