There are three different types of clematis. The key to pruning your clematis is knowing what type you have. In “Group 1” you will find early flowering species that produce masses of flowers like c. “montana” and c. “alpina.” The cultivars in Group 1 do not need regular pruning except to remove dead vines and restrict growth. When pruning, cut back to a healthy pair of buds or to the main stem after flowering. Flowering occurs on stems that grew during the previous season. Group 2 clematis are mid-summer flowering with large solitary flowers on stems that come from the previous season’s growth.

Popular examples of cultivars in this group include c. “Henryi” and c. “Nelly Moser.” Prune Group 2 clematis in the early spring before they begin to grow. Cut back to a healthy pair of buds. These buds will produce this year’s flowers. Group 3 clematis flower later in the season and bloom on the current year’s growth. Prune early in the season before growth begins. Prune clematis in this group down to a pair of leaf buds just above the previous season’s growth. For more about growing clematis, see http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1247.html.

Plant your annuals, vegetables, and perennials after the danger of frost has past, according to your hardiness zone. Pennsylvania has several hardiness “zones.” The best way to find out which one you are in is to contact your county extension office or to visit http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hzm-ne1.html

Equally as important, talk to your neighbors who are gardeners to find out when they plant their annuals and vegetables. Sometimes, even if your geographical area is in a particular hardiness zone, there can be “microclimates,” or pockets that are warmer or cooler than your designated zone. Talking to others in your immediate area can help you to determine this.

I always jokingly tell people that the best time to divide perennials is when they have the time to do so! While this idea works for most of our perennials most of the time, there are, indeed, optimal times to divide various plants. Generally, divide plants when they are dormant or close to dormancy. In our area, this would be fall through spring, whenever the soil can be worked. Avoid dividing in extreme hot or cold weather and in very dry and wet conditions. Plants that have tubers and fleshy roots, such as iris and peonies as well as other spring bloomers, may appreciate being divided more in the late summer or early fall timeframe—after they bloom—to give them time to become reestablished and maximize their bloom the following spring.

What is the best time to prune trees, and how do I hire someone who can prune large trees?


Answer:
Generally speaking, it is a good time to prune in the late winter, before your trees come out of dormancy. It would be a good idea to research specific species when you do prune. Pruning during the growing season will make wounds in the trees. Fresh wounds during the growing season make certain trees more susceptible to diseases, such as oak wilt or Dutch elm disease. So, it is wise to know when to avoid pruning for your specific species. You should not try to prune trees that you would have to climb into to prune. It is also best to contact an arborist when deciding how to train a very young tree.

That said, pruning small trees is a fairly simple and enjoyable matter if you take the time to learn the basics. Since you need to have some concrete facts and a reasonable sense for aesthetics, I think that pruning is partly science and partly art. I have included resources below to help get you started. For the large trees on your property, it is necessary to hire someone to prune.

What are the differences in potting soils and what should I look for when potting up containers and baskets for my patio?

Answer:
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